Ahead of a crucial vote, France, Austria, Finland, and the Netherlands are urging the European Union (EU) to implement stringent measures against the wasteful 'fast fashion' industry. These countries are advocating for legislation that would impose additional levies on clothing companies promoting cheap and disposable garments. The initiative aims to address the significant environmental impact of the fast fashion industry and is detailed in a discussion paper circulated among EU national delegates.
The discussion paper, seen by Euronews, emphasizes the need for EU-wide reforms to combat the negative effects of fast fashion. The four countries are pushing for amendments to the Waste Framework Directive (WFD) and the Ecodesign Regulation to include measures specifically targeting fast fashion. The environment ministers are scheduled to adopt their positions on these proposals at a summit on June 17.
The Environmental Impact
The joint statement highlights the dramatic increase in textile consumption per capita in Europe, coupled with a decrease in the average use of garments. According to the statement, some studies estimate that consumers discard their cheap clothes after just seven or eight uses. Between 2000 and 2015, the number of garments sold doubled to 100 billion annually, significantly draining resources. The fashion industry is responsible for 20% of global water pollution and 10% of greenhouse gas emissions, a figure projected to exceed 25% by 2050 if current trends continue.
Proposed Measures
France, Austria, Finland, and the Netherlands are calling for the introduction of concrete measures in EU law to combat ultra-fast fashion. These measures include extended producer responsibility schemes that would make companies accountable for the environmental impact of their products. The proposed amendments to the WFD would allow member states to require producers to pay fees based on the durability of their products and the frequency of new collections.
Support from Environmental Campaigners
Theresa Mörsen, a policy officer with the Brussels-based NGO Zero Waste Europe, described the forthcoming EU Council vote as a “pivotal moment” in the fight against discarded textiles and resource depletion. Mörsen emphasized the importance of holding producers accountable and shifting the focus from waste management to prevention. “These nations are taking the lead in addressing the core of the crisis: the sheer volume of textiles flooding the market,” Mörsen said.
France’s National Legislation
France is currently developing national legislation targeting companies like Shein and Temu, Chinese-owned clothing retailers known for their rapid growth and extensive use of digital marketing. A draft law, approved unanimously by the French parliament's lower house in March, proposes an environmental footprint-based levy of up to €5 per item, increasing to €10 by 2030. The bill also aims to ban direct and indirect marketing of fast fashion products, including the use of influencers.
Next Steps
The European Parliament has already taken a strong stance on revising the waste directive. Even if the EU Council reaches a joint position this month, final negotiations on the legislation are not expected to begin before September. This delay underscores the complexity and significance of the proposed measures in addressing the environmental impact of fast fashion.
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Source: Euronews
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